To get to where the waves are, the surfer has to paddle out to them in the opposite direction that the wave energy is traveling. This can be quite challenging, unless they use the duck dive. The duck dive is simple but very useful physics. This is how it is used :

1. When a surfer is about to go into an oncoming wave, he applies a force to the nose of the board pushing it underwater.
   
   
2. While the board is underwater, another force is applied, the force of the water, holding the board there until the wave has passed.
   
   
3. When the wave passes, the surfer lets the force of his hands go and the buoyancy brings the board and surfer back to the surface of the water.
   
   

Once the surfer gets past the waves, he has to paddle. This is simple physics as well.

• When the surfers hands push against the water, the water pushes forward on them.
• This accelerates the surfer so he can get his momentum up.

When the surfer paddles and pushes against the water,Newton’s law of every action has an equal and opposite reaction is used.